What is a Hair Gloss, Really? Understanding Demi Permanent Hair Color

“My last stylist gave me a Gloss.”

I often hear this in my chair, but here’s the truth– not all glosses are created equal. Gloss is one of those “hair words,” that is often overused and misunderstood. Just like there are multiple types of lipstick formulas, there are also many different types of hair color and Glosses ( another term for a Demi- Permanent hair Color).

Let’s clear things up:

What is a Hair Gloss aka Demi Permanent Hair Color?

A semi-permanent hair color is a deposit-only, non-oxidative dye that coats the hair shaft surface without using amonia or peroxide. However, under this umbrella of hair color category, there are different products that produce slightly different results that you should know about.

Acidic Demi (The TRUE Gloss)

Characteristics:

• Has an Acidic pH
• Zero lift- meaning it will not shift your natural base color
• Minimal to zero cuticle swelling ( It coats the surface of your hair shaft)
• Pure deposit only + shine
• Very conditioning and causes no further damage
• Used to shift tone ( example: hair is pale yellow, but you like an icy blonde result)
• Lasts for up to 3-6 weeks (gradual fade with each shampoo)

Who is it right for?

• Someone seeking a refresh in between appointments
• Adding shine
• Tonal shift for blondes and brunettes
• Low- commitment color refresh (Someone who likes to change their look with the seasons or trends).
• Gray Blending- best for fine hair, lower percentage of gray, or someone trying to transition out of chasing their roots. ( This is not full coverage) it will softly blend, and fades out in 3-4 weeks.

This is what most stylist refer to as a true gloss. If you ask for one, this is typically what you will get.

Alkaline Demi (Stronger and more pigmented)

Characteristics :

• Slightly Alkaline
• Slight swell to the hair cuticle
• Can shift natural pigment ( especially on fine textured hair)
• Stronger gray blending (A more modern coverage– more translucent)
• Longer lasting ( not as easy as acidic to remove)
• While still a Demi permanent it behaves different than an acidic gloss

When to ask for a Gloss vs. a Demi-Permanent:

Ask for a Gloss when:

• You feel like your color has lost it’s shine and tone ( in between foilyage or balayage appointments) It’s a great way to refresh and glow up!
• You love to change your hair tone and color often or seasonally.
• You are transitioning out of hair color and embracing your natural grays.
• You are not a fan of warmth or shifting your natural base color. (when you shift your natural, it will always fade warm)
• You love shine and are focusing on healthy hair.
• You don’t want to see a harsh grow out line
• You love to blend harsh foil lines at the root- Acidic Glosses are often used as a root shadow.

Ask for an Alkaline Demi when:

• You need more staying power and pigment- you don’t like how quickly glosses can fade
• You don’t mind a little warmth as it grows out ( depending on developer strength these can shift your natural base- especially on fine hair.
• You want more modern gray coverage and don’t mind getting your roots done every few weeks or months (depending on how gray you are, this timing will vary)
• You like a softer gray hair grow out ( Alkaline Demi yields a softer grow out than permanent hair color)
• You like a rich, deep result or seek longer lasting lowlight.

When a client sits in my chair and either asks for, or mentions they have had a Gloss it is important to know what you’re asking for. Here is the thing though, I am here as an expert in my field to guide you to make the right choices based on our consultation and conversations. You don’t always need to know all of the chemistry, that is your stylist job, but it’s a good idea to have basic knowledge to empower yourself as a consumer so that you can make the right choice with your hair person.

A Hair Gloss isn’t one thing- it can be an overused word in the world of styling that can cause you to get the wrong service if not fully understood- and getting the wrong service can set you back from a goal (Hair history matters and some demi-permanents need to be grown out). Although choosing the right formula is down to stylist knowledge and experience, the key is choosing the right one. The wrong or right one may be the difference between hair that fades brassy and hair that is healthy and evolves over time. There isn’t a wrong product, just a possible wrong choice for what your personal hair goals might be. I hope this empowers you to know the difference between acidic vs. alkaline hair color and what a gloss is and isn’t.

If you are near the Thousand Oaks, Simi Valley, Westlake Village area and are searching for a hair gloss with an expert in lived- in color, modern gray coverage and gray blending , text the number below for a consultation.

805-551-4468